Thank you all for your comments, I am trying to keep up with as many as I can. My screen time is very limited as I have significant light sensitivity caused by migraines. As such, there are days when I cannot tolerate being in front of a screen.

So many of the questions that I receive through comments, emails and phone calls, tend to focus around a few topics. In the presence of that, I present to you a Face Mask Making FAQ.

Face mask pattern and tutorial, Free Sewing Pattern for Face Mask, DIY Face Mask with Wire Face mask with pocket for filter

Face Mask Making FAQ

What are the best filter options?

Since my degree is in Art and not medicine, I do not feel qualified to recommend filters. However, I am using kleenex, unbleached coffee filters and sew-in interfacing. Please refer to the CDC or a medical professional though.

Recommendations for washing masks.

I have had great success washing and drying masks by putting them in a lingerie bag and washing in hot water. If the sun is out, I hang them to dry, if not, I put them in the dryer set to high heat. After, it just takes a quick press and a small adjustment to realign the nose wire.

What can I use for elastic and wire?

The pattern calls for thin elastic, however, wider elastic can be trimmed and still be effective. For instance, you might have a 2” strip of elastic. That can be cut into several smaller strips and used.

Cotton jersey is an excellent option as well. Among the many properties of jersey that I find attractive is that when cut, it rolls toward the right side. Why not use that to your advantage next time you plan a hem- instant design detail!

cotton jersey rope is great for tying face masks and other sewing details

To create jersey “rope” cut one-inch strips across the width of the grain. Pull gently to encourage it to roll.

Grossgrain ribbon.

For the masks that I am making for the Children’s Hospital of the King’s Daughters, we are using grossgrain ribbon and elastic. The picture below, is the Children’s Hospital Sample that I was given. On the right there is a piece of 6.5” elastic and on the left, a 36” piece of 3/8” grosgrain ribbon. Placing ribbon on both sides will work just as well. (For those of you who are very observant, you will notice that this mask is a bit different than my pattern and that the pleats are facing downward in this picture. This is a picture of the mask that I make for the Children’s Hospital of the King’s Daughters and is a different pattern from mine. Additionally, this is a picture of the “inside” of the mask. The pleats face up on the reverse.)

As for wire, twisty ties, paper clips, pipe cleaners, floral wire and even the metal inserts in file folders will all work. Now that I am writing this, I am looking at the stack of my kids school work scattered across the kitchen table- perhaps the wire from a spiral notebook could be clipped and pulled straight with pliers? (I will assign that task to my children today!)

What are some other (easier, quicker) mask options?

While I saw a gorgeous one made from a silk prada shoe bag here:, bandanas, t-shirts and scarves work too.

Again, I will refer you to the CDC.

How do I apply binding?

Binding can be tricky, but is so useful and beautiful. Here is another tutorial that I have written that might help you- and give you another project to work on.

The bias is applied to each side of the mask in the following manner:

Unfold the bias tape. With right sides together, pin the bias tape to the fabric aligning the raw edges of both the tape and the fabric. Stitch together with a 1/4" seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Fold the bias tape over the raw edge of the fabric to fully encase the seam allowance. Pin and press.

Recommendations for sizing for children?

The mask is based on an average adult sized face. To make a child’s size, I would recommend cutting one inch smaller. Instead of cutting 7.5” square, make it 6.5” and adjust the fit with ties or elastic.

It really comes down to the vertical measurement from the bridge of the nose to just under the chin and then the horizontal measument from ear to ear, adding enough volume to ease over the nose. Take those measurements, add seam allowance to all four sides of the pattern and you have a custom template.

Orientation of the pleats.

Pleats seem to be the biggest question of all. I was going to list this one first, but since it ties into volume as described in sizing, I think it fits better here. First of all, a bit about flat pattern making and volume.

A pattern is made of paper. It is flat. A pleat is one of many tools that turn that flat pattern (and later cloth) into a three-dimensional form which will fit the contours of the body. Within the body there are a series of curves and bulges, in this case we are discussing a human face, so we have a nose and mouth, and secondary curves (cheeks and breathing expansion). The mask needs to accommodate these shapes.

Darts (a pleat is a form of a dart) are shaping devices which allow enough fabric to cover the body where it is fullest while at the same time providing a means of taking in the excess fullness in a adjoining smaller area. You will find darts in your clothing where you need to allow for a curve or bulge. For example, at the bust, waist and hip of a garment.

Darts are not the only way to control shaping. Shaped seams, pleats, shirring, tucks, smocking and gathers accomplish the same purpose.

To be effective, the dart must be located in the area where the high point of any curve occurs. In the case of a mask, it is the nose. The dart is then controlled at each side with the bias encased pleats. Since the pleats are quite shallow and the mask is designed to be pulled from the bridge of the nose to under the chin, it really does not matter which way you orient the pleats, as the only place that you will see the pleat is just along the side casing.

There seems to be much debate about the orientation of the pleat. So many of you have written to me telling me that you understand the pleats need to be turned down so as not to catch particles. While I do understand that thought process, if that were the case, we need to rethink the side casings too as particles are just as likely to settle there too.

This pattern was created from a mask that was given to me at a recent doctor’s appointment. Since the pleats were facing in an upward manner on the front of that mask, that is how I created the pattern. When the mask is turned the opposite way, the pleats turn down.

This pattern was written to guide you through the face mask construction process. My goal as a sewing educator, is to explain to you, the reader how to cut and handle the fabric and to begin to understand the reasoning behind the methods used. Interest, motivation and enthusiasm are all essential to sewing. I hope that once this current pandemic is behind all of us, (and that we recover!) that many of you will continue to advance your sewing journey. It gets a whole lot more fun- I promise!