THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO BUYING YOUR FIRST SEWING MACHINE

THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO BUYING YOUR FIRST SEWING MACHINE

CLICK HERE FOR MY FREE GUIDE TO FABRICS AND FIBERS

 It’s that time of year again!  Beginning in early November, each day I get a phone call, text or email requesting recommendations for purchasing a sewing machine.  I love these conversations.  The person calling (or writing) is interested in supporting the creative talents of someone special to them and wants a bit of guidance in selecting a machine that will meet the needs of the budding enthusiast today and provide them with room for growth. 

No doubt about it, if you don’t sew, or haven’t shopped for machines lately, the options can be a bit overwhelming. Fear not, I’ve got your back! This guide will help to simplify your search and help you to make a savvy choice.

I have sewn for more than 45 years and have spent the last 9 years teaching others to sew. In this time, I’ve tried a lot of sewing machines. While machines certainly offer some incredible functions and convenience features, for the most part, they do the same thing; they stitch layers of fabric together. Sounds simple, right? Yes and no. As with so much in life, the devil is in the details.

UNDERSTANDING YOUR SEWING NEEDS AND GOALS

Sewing machines are designed for both utility and for specific needs.  The types of projects that you will be making as well as the kinds of fabric you use, will dictate the features you'll need. It may be helpful to jot down your project ideas and a list of the types of fabrics you’ll likely use most.     

What types of projects do you plan to make?  Are you sewing for kids or with kids? Do you want to make mostly clothing or quilts and home décor items? Will you be sewing with denim or leather? Answering these questions will help you to find a machine that will support your creative work.

You see, sewing requires constant adjustment in both the mechanical settings and in the way that the fabric is manipulated. Depending on the structure of the fabric you are sewing with (woven, non woven, stretch), as well as its weight, and finish, the machine settings will need to be adjusted to facilitate a smooth stitch. Some machines will automatically make many of these adjustments for you, while others need to be changed manually.

GET MY FREE COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING FABRICS AND FIBERS.

Have you ever walked into a fabric store and felt completely overwhelmed? I hear you! To help you to find the perfect fabric for your project, I’ve written a guide to understanding fabrics and fibers. You will learn the characteristics of plant fibers, animal fibers, and synthetics, as well as fabric structure and finish. I also provide some general guidelines for needle selection, thread, stitch type and length, seam finish, pressing, handling and care. Be sure to grab it before you leave!

Choosing a well-designed sewing machine makes learning to sew a much more enjoyable process. A sewing machine is an investment and something that you will likely be using for a very long time. Even if you don’t use it every day, when you sit down to sew, you want it to work.  For that, dependability is key.

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES

Sewing machines fall into three broad categories based on motor type: Mechanical, Electronic, and Computerized.

I generally suggest that beginners purchase a mechanical machine.  There are a few reasons for this.  The first, they are great machines to learn on.  Everything you need to control the stitching is right there in front of you.  This makes it easier to begin to understand the working relationship between the needle, the stitch type, width, length, the thread, fabric, and the resulting stitch.  When something goes wrong, and it will, the more you know about the machine, the easier it is to trouble shoot.  As you progress in skills and want more features, a mechanical machine will be a great back up to take to classes, or when your more expensive machine needs repairs or is just too fussy to deal with.

 If you have been sewing for a bit and want some extra features, an electronic machine might be a good fit.  Electronic machines strike a balance between simplicity and functionality, offering room to grow into more advanced sewing without the complex interface of a computerized machine.  You will find lots of decorative stitches and even an alphabet, plus convenience features such as a thread cutter, needle up/down button and automatic needle threader, speed control, and automatic thread tension adjustment.  Electronic machines still require the user to control the settings, but with buttons rather than dials.

 Once you have gained some skills and are ready for advanced features, Computerized machines are an option to consider.  They are loaded with all types of stitches as well as specialized and convenience features.  (Most of which you will never use).  However, if you sew a lot, you may want to try one out.  You can expect to find built in tutorials, embroidery function, a large work area, the ability to programming the machine for thread weight, needle type and size, and weave of fabric. 

 TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

A sewing machine dealer or local fabric shop is going to be your best bet for purchasing a machine. If you are new to sewing, you can go in and talk with a salesperson.  They will ask you a few questions to assess they type of machine that will suit your needs and budget, then invite you to sit down to try a few out.  The staff are knowledgeable and want to help you find the best machine for your needs. Plus, many dealers offer free classes with the purchase of a machine as well as on site repairs.

I really encourage you to shop at a few dealers to try their machines.  Dealers generally specialize in a single brand or two of machines.  When you find a machine that you love, you will know it immediately. 

Pro tip: When I shop for a machine, I like to bring my own thread and a few different types and weights of fabric to test how the machine behaves. This way I can see how it sounds, feels, and stitches.

 FEATURES

Domestic sewing machines of all types will offer a straight stitch, zig zag stitch and a buttonhole function.  They also come with a set of accessories including, a basic set of presser feet, a standard foot, a zipper foot, and a buttonhole foot. You may also get a few extra bobbins, a seam ripper, a cleaning brush, a package of needles, a screwdriver, and a manual.

Some machines may offer additional accessories such as an extension table, walking foot, overlock foot, blind hem foot, or even an invisible zipper foot.  These items can always be purchased separately.  You will just need to make sure that they are compatible with your machine.

The types of fabric and projects that you make will dictate the other accessories and features that you will need.  Since I primarily sew clothing and accessories, these are among my favorites.

• A variable stitch width and length This allows you to customize the length and width each stitch.

• Needle up/ down  the needle up/down feature works as an extra hand. It is terrific when sewing corners and points so that your actual hands are free to guide the fabric. 

• Bright LED lights. Essential for being able to see what you are doing.

• Adjustable presser foot pressure. Not all fabrics feed through the sewing machine with the standard pressure. Some will drag and others are thick causing the machine to leave marks. The ability to adjust the pressure can improve the quality of your stitching.

• Auxiliary spool pin I’m impatient and frequently too short on time. An auxiliary spool pin allows me to wind a new bobbin without having to unthread the sewing machine. While I can do without a lot of features, this one is very important to me. 

• A good stretch stitch for sewing knits. When sewing, you want the stitches to sit flat and embed only slightly in the fabrics surface. Knit fabric can be tricky to sew with because they stretch. While you can sew knits with a zig zag stitch, the stretch stitch looks and lasts better. If you plan on sewing with knits, take a sample sized fabric with you and try the stitch out.

• Walking Foot or Dual Feed  These allow each layer of fabric to feed evenly without shifting and sliding. They are great for sewing leather, matching plaids, and stripes as well as for working with thicker fabric.

• Optional feet and accessories Sewing machines come with a variety of sewing feet attachments. The ability to just purchase a specialty tool or foot for my machine means that I will use it for more projects and when some new accessory comes out- instead of upgrading my machine, I can just get that new foot or needle plate and experiment.

 BUDGET

Within these categories of machines, there are a broad range of prices.  While you do need to keep a budget in mind, you do not have to break the bank to get a good sewing machine.  At the same time, you also don't want to shy away from quality. To get a quality machine that will last, plan to spend at least $300. 

A note on buying a sewing machine for kids.  As cute as they are, you want to steer away from toy machines.  They are often more frustrating than they are functional.  Instead, opt for a real sewing machine that will provide a solid foundation with which to learn and grow.  You will want to look for a sturdy mechanical or electronic sewing machine equipped safety features such as a foot pedal, speed control, and finger guard.  Kids are hard on sewing machines.  A better-quality machine with all metal parts, a wide, sturdy base, and a warranty will be a wise investment.  It might even get you sewing too!

 RECOMMENDATIONS

Before I make any specific sewing machine recommendations, there are a few things that I’d like to note.

The machines that I recommend are ones that I personally own or have sewn on. This list is not comprehensive, and I do not receive anything from these companies if you click on the link or purchase. These are just the machines that I prefer and trust.

I am a BERNINA brand ambassador. Which means that I am a representative of the company and get to learn all about the exciting new machines and accessories. If you are in the market for a BERNINA Sewing Machine, please contact me and I will be happy to discuss with you.

BERNINA is a 5th generation family-owned company based in Switzerland.  They manufacturer the highest quality of sewing machines, which are produced in modern factories that pay their employees a living wage.  The factories were updated about a decade ago with an eye toward sustainability and reducing their carbon footprint. BERNINA also has a diffusion line of machines called bernette.   I use bernette machines in my classroom.

This might sound like an advertisement- it’s not.  I do not receive anything for sharing my opinion or get any monetary benefit from your purchase.  It’s just my honest opinion.

At my home studio, I have two main machines; BERNINA 350PE and 590E.  (The 350PE is no longer available, but this one is similar). The 350PE is hands down my favorite sewing machine ever.  It has all the features you would expect from an electronic machine, with the ability to add new feet and accessories, but still simple to use.  I basically turn it on, thread it and go.  It sews through anything.  (All of the bags in my first book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More, were made on this machine).

The 590E is my fancy machine, meaning I mostly use it for creative sewing or for precision sewing (the tricky stuff!) as it allows me to fine tune every detail.  From typing in the exact brand, color, and weight of thread to programming my foot pedal, no detail is too small to customize.  Fussy, right? Yes, but sometimes a project calls for perfection.

I have written a few other posts over the years on sewing machines.  My recommendations haven’t changed.  However, some of the specific machines may be discontinued or have updated models.

At Little Stitch Studio, I have suite of bernette B38s as well as a B79 for quilting and embroidery. These machines are quite impressive and suitable for all types of sewing projects and levels of experience. bernette machines are available in mechanical, electronic, and computerized models. They are solid machines that have intuitive features, sturdy construction, and lots of accessories.

Little Stitch Studio, Norfolk, VA

 The b38 is the top model of the 30 series bernette machines.  This means that it has the most features and functions.  There are some others that I highly recommend for consideration.

Bernette b37

bernette sew & go 1

bernette b33

Kid Favorite: The Eversewn Sparrow line features mechanical, electronic, and computerized sewing machines.  They are some of the most kid friendly machines that I have used.  They have a solid weight, intuitive features and sew reliably well. The machines were designed to appeal to a younger customer, one who is enthusiastic about sewing and wants a machine that is both durable and packed with thoughtful features that are typically available in more expensive machines.

 Janome, Juki, Pfaff, Baby lock and Viking are among the best sewing machines available.  You can’t go wrong with any of them.  I will highlight a few individual models but know that these are reliable brands that will last and likely to be passed down through generations.  I recommend that you look through the websites and compare the features and prices. 

 This Janome model has been around for a bit and for good reason.  It is an “entry-level” mechanical machine from a dependable brand. This machine is an anniversary edition and comes with a little bag of extra accessories.

I have this Juki machine and have recommended it to many friends and students.  It has the ability to sew through several layers of fabric and keep an even tension.  Plus the little turtle and rabbit icons help the youngest sewers monitor their speed. (Juki is the standard in industrial sewing machines and their domestic machines meet a similar standard).

Pfaff is another cult favorite brand, with good reason.  (I had a young student bring a 1980’s Pfaff into class last week. It belonged to her grandmother and is still going strong! That goes to show you the value of quality and longevity).

Before I purchased my first BERNINA sewing machine, I was a longtime Husqvarna Viking user.  In fact, the first machines that I purchased for my studio when I began teaching were the Emerald 118.  The Emerald 118 is a mechanical machine that is straight forward, no bells and whistles, but durable and produces a quality stitch.  If you plan to do a lot of heavy duty sewing, this is a machine that you will want to seriously consider. 

My first location in a room at Ghent Methodist Church, in Norfolk, VA. Those sweet little girls are all teenagers now.

Brother machines are very popular for their price and convenience of buying them just about anywhere.  I have some students (both kids and adults) that have them and have no complaints.  They are machines that work and have loads of features.  You can buy a fully computerized one for less than $300.  It is important to note that I make this recommendation with reservation, as Brother machines have an attractive price and they do sew just fine.  However, they are made in China and use a lot of plastic parts; this means that they are not going to last forever and is likely that when something breaks, it may not be worth fixing.    I certainly don’t mean this to sound snobbish, instead, please understand that I value well made products that are built to last and to be maintained.

 In conclusion, choose a machine that aligns with your sewing goals, the types of projects you'll undertake, and the materials you'll use. Whether it's for you or for a child, the right machine can make the journey into sewing a delightful one. And remember, I'm always here to help with personalized machine recommendations and advice to ensure your sewing success.

Happy Sewing!

XO, Hilarie

A Guide to Fabrics and Fibers for Sewing

Free Fabric and Fibers Guide

Have you ever stood in a fabric store, feeling overwhelmed by the myriad of fabric types, textures, weaves, and finishes, unsure of what to choose for your next project? Or perhaps you've purchased a fabric but have no idea what to make with it?

I am thrilled to share my latest project, Glossary of Fabrics and Fibers, A Guide to Textiles for Sewing.

I wrote this guide to help you to better understand the behavioral attributes of fabrics and fibers. To deepen your understanding of the foundational characteristics and essential vocabulary of textiles. Additionally, I share some general guidelines and advice for needle selection, thread, stitch type and length, seam finish, pressing, handling and care.

With each page, you will gain insight into how different fibers react to wear and care, how weave affects drape, and why a particular finish might be used for some fabrics but not others.

This compilation is far more than a simple list of fabrics; it's a woven narrative that illuminates the world of textiles. Whether you're searching for the meaning of a specific term or casually browsing, you'll uncover the breadth and depth of textiles in all their forms—be they aesthetic, historic, geographic, scientific, economic, or technological.

This project began as a handout to give to the students that took my Fabric and Fibers class. Each time I sat down to write, I found that there was more to include. How can you describe fabric without knowing fiber, structure, and finish- and that’s before discussing even a single type of fabric! Now, it is more than a hundred pages!

I like to know why I’m doing something. It helps me to feel empowered and to make choices for myself . This is true in life, but also to my core values as a teacher. I want to honor where each student is and to provide them with the necessary context and connection to the purpose of the lesson. That’s a big part of this guide.

A Sneak Peek into the Guide

Are you curious about the intricacies of textile selection and the suitability for a given project? For instance, do you know which needle size and thread type are perfect for sewing with cotton jersey? Can you distinguish between plisse and seersucker, and do you understand how their differences might impact your project? Have you ever wondered about the ideal fabric and fiber choices for crisp, lasting pleats?

All this and more to share with you! From Acetate to Zibeline, over 100 pages of information about fabrics and fibers is yours to weave a new layer of knowledge into your sewing.

Click here to download

"Sea Idylls": An Immersion into Hyperrealistic Sculpture and Feminine Power

Last week, as I was preparing for my trip to NYC, I had a conversation with a friend and asked her about some of her favorite must-see spots.  She mentioned that one of her friends recently sent her a link to a new outdoor installation featuring the sculptures of Carole Feuerman.  Since I used to design swimwear, she knew that this one would be interesting- and she was right!

New York City is known for its art, culture, and fashion. It’s no surprise that “Sea Idylls,” the latest art exhibition that graces Park Avenue, marries all three. The installation showcases Carole Feuerman’s stunning hyper realistic sculptures of women in swimwear. Her attention to detail is what sets her work apart, making this something worth seeing.

For Feuerman, these sculptures aren't just about the aesthetics of a bikini or the joy of a dip in the water. Instead, each piece is imbued with rich, often unspoken narratives, mirroring societal realities and universal human emotions.  It just happens to be swimwear that she uses as a mechanism to tell the tale. This deep and rich exploration of themes makes her art that much more interesting and engaging. Let’s take a loser look, so you can more fully appreciate the intricacies of each piece.

Feuerman's sculptures are testaments to her extraordinary attention to detail. They possess a quality of hyperrealism that makes the viewer question the boundaries between art and life. With painstaking precision, she captures the texture of the fabric, the shimmer of water droplets on sun-kissed skin, and the palpable essence of a day spent by the seaside.

Another piece, "Survival of Serena", depicts a weary woman clinging to an inner tube. The sculpture, inspired by the sight of immigrants floating on water towards a hopeful future, encapsulates the struggles of immigrants and their relentless pursuit of a better life.

Perhaps one of the most interesting aspects of this exhibit is the collaboration between Feuerman and swimwear designer Sama Danesh. “Pisces” embodies the designer’s aesthetic and stands out due to Feuerman’s willingness to explore the work of another artist.  As someone who used to make swimwear, this one definitely caught my eye. I was astounded by the play of textures and attention to detail.  Do you see those seams?

As I walked down Park Avenue, I had to pause to truly appreciate these beautiful interludes of art, and found myself transported to a place of deep reflection and powerful narratives.

“Justice" is another particularly striking work that depicts a woman balanced atop a sphere, symbolizing her representation of justice throughout the land. The reflection of the sphere functions as a type of collective lens that invites the viewer to examine their place in the world and reflect on the disparity of experience.

Carole Feuerman's “Sea Idylls” exhibit is something you're going to want to see in person. It is an impressive collection that portrays women in swimwear in different perspectives, emphasizing strong narratives. You will come away with a deeper appreciation for the art form and the stories behind each piece. Do not miss this chance to experience this exhibition on Park Avenue until the end of the year.

To learn more about Feuerman’s work, you can download the Galeries Bartoux Digital catalogue.

Designing Women: Fashion Creators and Their Interiors

Gowns attributed to Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon; at the Museum FIT exhibit: Designing Women: Fashion Creators and their Interiors

Designing Women: Fashion Creators and Their Interiors, a recent exhibit at the Museum at FIT, explores the interconnectedness of fashion and interior design through the lens of some of the most influential female designers of the 20th century. This exhibit was the second of five fashion exhibits that I saw while in NYC last month.  Recently, I wrote about the student curated, Claire McCardell exhibit.

Fashion at its essence is a form of communication.  Through it, we can express our identity, ideas, and aspirations. Since fashion reflects the cultural, political, and socio-economic context of a given period, this exhibit provides an opportunity to see how fashion influenced the creative process of some extraordinary twentieth-century fashion creators.  While also inspiring a profound appreciation for the artistry and environmental influences that helped to shape their careers.

Gowns attributed to Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon and the Callot Sisters at the Museum FIT exhibit: Designing Women: Fashion Creators and their Interiors

Gowns by Jeanne Pauquin, at the Museum FIT exhibit: Designing Women: Fashion Creators and their Interiors

Understanding the Influence of 20th Century Women Designers

More than just a celebration of fashion, Designing Women, is an exploration of the creative process that reveals how fashion and design are used as a canvas to express views on femininity, comfort, luxury, and even rebellion. By challenging societal norms, the bold and pioneering clothing and interiors, redefined what fashion could be. Transforming not just the way women dressed, but also the way they lived.

You can see this duality in the work of Coco Chanel, for example.  An icon of sophisticated simplicity, she prioritized comfort in her designs, while pioneering a new aesthetic of elegance that placed the modern woman at its core. Her Parisian apartment, with its neutral colors, exquisite minimalism, and mix of masculine and feminine elements, echoed the same philosophy. It portrayed luxury in the realm of comfort, serving as a physical extension of her avant-garde vision for women's fashion.

Coco Chanel, and Elsa Schaiparelli (right) at the Museum FIT exhibit: Designing Women: Fashion Creators and their Interiors

Detail Chanel Black Lace Evening Dress, C. 1932

Madeleine Vionnet, Schaiparelli, and Chanel dresses,

Chanel’s work was juxtaposed with designers such as Madeleine Vionnet, Jeanne Paquin, Elizabeth Hawes, Bonnie Cashin, Anna Sui, and Elsa Schiaparelli. Schiaparelli’s home, with its whimsical and provocative elements, was such a reflection of her Surrealist leanings. Underscoring how each woman's living space and their sartorial creations are truly an extension of their fashion ethos.

Placed within the broader historical context of the twentieth century, the curator, Deputy Director, Patricia Mears has skillfully incorporated the prevailing social, cultural, and artistic movements of the time, enabling visitors to better understand the designers' motivations, inspirations, and the impact their work had on society. This historical framework serves as a valuable backdrop, enhancing our appreciation for the transformative power of design and how it shaped the spaces we live in and the clothes we wear today.

As I meandered through the gallery, I could more fully appreciate how the personal philosophies of the designers became intrinsically woven into their work, and how their interiors were both a reflection and an extension of their personal styles. Not as separate spheres of private and public, fashion and interiors, but as a single canvas of personal expression for their revolutionary ideas. With each vignette, I looked for parallels and differences, for echoes and deviations. Remembering that each of these women was not only creating beautiful clothing, but also a new paradigm for women in their time.

Exploring Fashion and Interior Design

I often encourage my fashion students to go to museums and to look beyond the visual aesthetics and to think about the cultural, social, and historical context. To engage with the exhibition not just as an observer, but as a student of history and culture. Above all, I ask them to remember, every designer leaves a bit of herself in her work. Our job is to find and understand it.

Pauline Trigère, Mary Quant, Mila Schoën, Irene Galitzine, and Halston with Elsa Peretti “Bone” cuffs and “Bottle Open Bottle” Necklace.

Mary Quant and Mila Schön

Bonnie Cashin ensembles.

Gowns by Anouska Hemple and Carolyne Roehm.

Bonnie Cashin, Barbara Hulanicki for Biba, Diane von Furstenberg, Yeohlee, Tracy Reese, Anna Sui.

Diane von Furstenberg, Yeohlee, and Tracy Reese.

How Designing Women Transformed Fashion and Interior Design

Drawn from the Museum at FIT’s permanent collection, this exhibit beautifully captures the women behind the designs, her visions, her revolutions, her impact on the world and how her work influenced other women of their time– not in a prescriptive way, but rather by giving women new avenues for self-expression and empowerment. By pushing boundaries in both fashion and interior design, these designers expanded the realm of possibilities for women.  By telling the story of the woman behind the designs, her visions, her revolutions, and her impact on the world – it shows how these women, through their work, transformed the spaces we live in and the clothes we wear.

I left with a renewed understanding of the transformative power of fashion, the significance of personal spaces, and the enduring legacies of these influential women. Designing Women is not only a celebration of their accomplishments but also a testament to the ongoing dialogue between fashion, art, and the spaces in which creativity flourishes. By highlighting these intertwined narratives, the exhibit encourages viewers to think more deeply about the cultural and historical contexts that these designers navigated, thus providing a comprehensive understanding of their contributions.

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Hilarie

Designing Women: Fashion Creators and Their Interiors

At the Museum at FIT, November 30, 2022- May 14, 2023

Claire McCardell Exhibition at FIT: Exploring Fashion's Pioneer

Claire McCardell

Practicality, Liberation, Innovation

Claire McCardell, Popover dress, rayon, brass hooks & eyes, c. 1947, Lord & Taylor, American, founded 1826, Gift from Hood College of Frederick, Maryland, 96.61.6

In the world of fashion, certain designers leave an indelible mark on the industry, shaping trends and redefining the way we dress. One such visionary is Claire McCardell, whose groundbreaking designs continue to inspire and captivate fashion enthusiasts even today. In April, I was able to see a captivating exhibition celebrating the remarkable legacy of Claire McCardell, at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT): Claire McCardell, Practicality Liberation, Innovation.  This small exhibit showcased some of her revolutionary designs while highlighting her enduring influence on contemporary fashion.

As a lifelong McCardell fan, the is the second exhibit of her work that I have seen in six months.   Before then, it had been about 30 years.  Needless to say, I was thrilled.

A Pioneer in American Fashion:

Claire McCardell, born in 1905, emerged as a pivotal figure in American fashion during the mid-20th century. Known for her avant-garde approach to design, McCardell challenged conventional norms by prioritizing comfort, practicality, and freedom of movement in her garments. She played a significant role in shaping the modern concept of American sportswear, which emphasized simplicity, functionality, and wearability.

The exhibition was organized by four college seniors in the undergraduate program in Art History and Museum Professions (AHMP Program) at FIT.  The garments showcased, are culled from the FIT Study Collection, with additional historical records from the Gladys Marcus Library’s Special Collection & College Archives.  

Organized into three sections, Practicality Liberation and Innovation, this exhibit offers visitors a unique opportunity to witness the evolution of McCardell’s career and gain insights into her creative process. The curation captures McCardell's distinctive style, highlighting her groundbreaking use of fabric, innovative garment construction techniques, and keen eye for detail.

McCardell's designs were characterized by their clean lines, unstructured silhouettes, and inventive use of fabrics such as denim, menswear suiting woolens, and cotton. She introduced several innovative design elements that are now considered industry standards. For instance, the use of unique closures, such as grommets and hooks and eyes, spaghetti string ties and well-proportioned pockets are all McCardell-isms. The ballet flat as a shoe style, now a staple in every woman's wardrobe, can be traced back to McCardell's ingenious creations. She also popularized the concept of mix-and-match separates, allowing women to effortlessly combine different pieces to create versatile outfits.

Challenging Norms and Promoting Individuality: McCardell's designs not only prioritized comfort and practicality but also challenged societal norms, encouraging individuality and self-expression. She designed clothing that catered to the changing needs of women, both in domestic and public spheres, and even adhered to war rationing guidelines. By liberating women from cumbersome and restrictive clothing, McCardell truly transformed the fashion landscape. Her emphasis on functionality and ease of wear continues to resonate with modern designers, ensuring her lasting influence.

Below is a gallery of images of the garments.

Beyond showcasing McCardell's designs, the exhibition walls and tables were lined with reproductions of photographs as well as advertisements, flyers, newspaper clippings and letters to place the social and cultural context in which her work emerged. Visitors were encouraged to contemplate the impact of World War II on fashion and witness how McCardell's designs responded to the era's challenges, embracing a sense of optimism and liberation.

Claire McCardell's trailblazing designs serve as a source of inspiration for students, designers and enthusiasts alike. Her ability to bridge the gap between high fashion and practicality continues to influence contemporary fashion, encouraging the exploration of innovative techniques and the creation of garments that empower individuals to express their unique style.

 The Claire McCardell exhibition at the Museum at FIT is a testament to the enduring legacy of this remarkable designer. Her contributions to American fashion, her innovative design philosophy, and her unwavering commitment to creating comfortable yet stylish clothing continue to inspire and captivate fashion enthusiasts and designers alike. Exploring the exhibition provides a glimpse into McCardell's revolutionary designs and the profound impact she had on shaping the fashion industry. Claire McCardell's remarkable vision serves as a reminder that fashion can transcend trends and that timeless design can continue to shape and influence the way we dress for generations to come.

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Hilarie

To see more photos, follow the hashtag on social media. #clairemccardellMFIT

Website and Blog Update

Earlier this year I switched to a new website provider.  After 8 years of squarespace, I felt as if I needed a platform that offered a bit more automation and room to grow.  Having very outdated website creation experience, there is only so much I can do without having to take a deep dive into coding.

The new and improved website.

So far, I am really pleased with the way that the new website is turning out. I have been able to add retail, a downloadable calendar and new class offerings. The site loads much faster and (I think!) is easier to navigate. It feels a bit more grown-up too, though still very much a work in progress.

As great as the new site is, the platform does not support a traditional blog.  For a creative business, I feel that a blog is still important.  A place to hold all of the tutorials, patterns and content that I have amassed over the years.  To that end, I am keeping the blog on the original squarespace site (www.littlestitchstudionorfolk.com and just creating a link from the new site to the old.  It may take a bit of trial and error to streamline the content, but I think there is a way to make it work.  

The ultimate test in how well a website operates, is of course the user experience. What are some features that your favorite websites offer? Are there some content ideas that you would like me to add? I am working on new patterns, some pre-recorded classes as well as some helpful videos and downloadable guides.

Have you switched website providers?  If so, I'd love to hear about your experience.

XOXO, Hilarie

Creative Gift ideas under $25 for the Crafty Kids on your list

Are you looking for gifts to fill the stockings for the little crafty ones on your list? Look no further. My shop is brimming with creative gifts for your kids this holiday season- all under $25, and I’m adding more items every day! Here's a rundown of some of my favorites...

Wool felt sewing kits, wood peg doll ornaments, jewelry, pompoms and sweet little sewing tools and notions. All kid approved and among the supplies we use each day in class.

In addition to the featured items, I’m happy to put together custom kits. Perhaps a little DIY kit to make bags, scrunchies or doll clothes? Send me a message with your budget and I’ll make it happen.

If you stop by my etsy shop, I’d love to hear your thoughts. It is still very much a work in progress but so far, I’m pleased with it. Do you like etsy? There are things that I really like about it, but others not so much. The plan is to transfer everything to my own website too- but that will come with time. In the meantime, happy shopping!

Little Stitch Studio Now Has A Retail Fabric Shop

Little Stitch Studio Fine Fashion Fabrics

Yes, you read that correctly! Little Stitch Studio is now offering an online fabric shopping opportunity. All of the fabric that I have in stock will also be available to purchase and take home to sew your own clothing and accessories.

When I moved Little Stitch Studio into its current location in 2017, my plan was to have a small retail section. Teaching kids, the retail proved to be tricky. First of all, they want to play with everything! Or they might get confused between supplies meant for sale and those that are for them to use. (Hint- if it’s in a package- it’s not for class use:) Also, staffing was an issue, it wasn’t easy to help a customer select fabric, while teaching a roomful of kids. So, the retail idea was set aside. That is, until now!

It should come as no surprise to anyone that the pandemic has been tough on small businesses. By flexibility and sheer luck, I was able to survive the 5 month shutdown in 2020. Operations since then, with reduced class sizes, and a few week long closures due to Covid exposure, it is clear that I need to diversify.

The adventure in retailing is now online. The physical studio space can stay set up for teaching and I can diversify by offering a collection of beautiful fabrics, notions, trims, books + patterns and gifts. And you, my friends, can shop from anywhere in the world!

The shop site is still very much a work in progress. It will take some time to “perfect”, but I am pleased so far. Better graphics and photography are coming, thanks to my very talented sister, Morganne. You can look forward to lots of new additions and some fun patterns and kits coming just in time for the holidays too!

Want to hear about the fabric? I have longstanding accounts with some major fabric manufacturers like Robert Kaufman, Windham Fabrics, RJR, Brewer and Moda. These companies offer fabric for garment sewing as well as fun quilting cotton. Additionally, I have been able to find some deadstock fabric too. (For those of you who might not know what” deadstock” means, Deadstock Fabrics are essentially fabric leftovers- not scraps, but actual yardage that companies or designers didn’t use).

You will find cotton solids and prints as well as linen, wool and silk in a variety of weights and substrates: Knits, jerseys, canvas, twills and flannels. Fabric that is perfectly suited for sewing garments, accessories, kids clothing and even holiday items. (Holiday fabric is listed too!)

Please take a look at the new shop- I’d love to hear your thoughts and welcome suggestions. If you are local, I’m happy to arrange pickup and in-person personal shopping opportunities.

Best,

Hilarie

Pleated Face Mask Sewing Pattern and Tutorial Update

Since cloth face masks look like there are going to be the feature accessory for yet another season, I’ve updated my very popular, Pleated Face Mask Tutorial to add a PDF of the Pleated Face Mask Sewing pattern in three sizes: Adult, Older Child/Tween, and young child.

When I first wrote the tutorial last year, I had no experience in wearing a face mask. Like you, I have learned a lot in the past year and a half. Not just how to make a great looking, safe and durable mask, but also that in order to wear them, they have to be comfortable and they need to completely cover your nose and mouth.

The fitting part can be tricky though. Just as we all have fit preferences in our clothes, masks are no exception. Some people like them snug, others want them to be a bit looser. Some like elastic, others ties- or both. The shape and style of a mask is important too as some prefer the pleated mask and others the shaped mask.

All sizes of the Pleated Face Mask are constructed in the same manner and feature a side casing that can be secured with elastic or a drawstring cord. (The addition of a drawstring cord acts as a neck strap so that the wearer can easily take it on and off when walking around.)

The small size fits a child around 5-11 years old. The older child/tween size is a bit larger and fits a child 12- a small adult. The adult size is the largest and should fit most grownups.

You can download the pattern here.

Mask, Vax, wash your hands and be safe out there y’all!

XO, Hilarie

New Course: Draft A Bag- Three Ways

Are you intrigued by the possibility of designing your own purse?  Have you admired designer bags and purses and wished that you could make your own? 

I am thrilled to launch my new bag design course with Topstitch Makers. This bag design course will help you to create beautiful purses and bags that blend style and function. Through live instruction, you will learn to draft a basic bag pattern and explore a variety of design options.  From concept to construction, we will work through three classic bag styles: Clutch, Hobo and Tote. With an emphasis on detail, each lesson will present new techniques such as adding gussets, pockets, structure as well as straps and handles to further develop your skills. 

• You will have opportunities to get help, ask questions, post your progress and benefit from posts your instructor will write that are tailored to the skills you will be learning. This will take place in a dedicated bag design course activity feed.

• Patterns and instruction will be included with the course series.

• The sewing sessions will take place over zoom in a professional studio with multiple camera views.

• The live sewing sessions will be recorded for you to return to at your convenience.

• Students who register also receive a copy of my book Sew Bags.

Topstitch Makers brings together garment sewists to improve their sewing skills, gather in one unique place, to support and learn from each other, so they can reach their sewing goals. Members can attend a variety of live, online sewcial sessions, talks with community leaders and attend instructor guided sewalongs, workshops and courses. It is $4.99 per month to join the community membership and $29 per month to join the community + attend live sewalongs but there's one month free trial, so you can just check it out and come take my course for the course price of $195.

The dates are:

Sunday, July 11, 2-3pm EST Welcome Session

Sunday, July 18, 2-4pm EST Sewing the Clutch

Sunday, July 25, 2-4pm EST Sewing the Hobo

Sunday, Aug 1, 2-4pm EST Sewing the Tote

To learn more and register, visit https://www.topstitchmakers.com.