THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO BUYING YOUR FIRST SEWING MACHINE
It’s that time of year again! Beginning in early November, each day I get a phone call, text or email requesting recommendations for purchasing a sewing machine. I love these conversations. The person calling (or writing) is interested in supporting the creative talents of someone special to them and wants a bit of guidance in selecting a machine that will meet the needs of the budding enthusiast today and provide them with room for growth.
No doubt about it, if you don’t sew, or haven’t shopped for machines lately, the options can be a bit overwhelming. Fear not, I’ve got your back. This guide will help to simplify your search and help you to make a savvy choice.
THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO BUYING YOUR FIRST SEWING MACHINE
CLICK HERE FOR MY FREE GUIDE TO FABRICS AND FIBERS
It’s that time of year again! Beginning in early November, each day I get a phone call, text or email requesting recommendations for purchasing a sewing machine. I love these conversations. The person calling (or writing) is interested in supporting the creative talents of someone special to them and wants a bit of guidance in selecting a machine that will meet the needs of the budding enthusiast today and provide them with room for growth.
No doubt about it, if you don’t sew, or haven’t shopped for machines lately, the options can be a bit overwhelming. Fear not, I’ve got your back! This guide will help to simplify your search and help you to make a savvy choice.
I have sewn for more than 45 years and have spent the last 9 years teaching others to sew. In this time, I’ve tried a lot of sewing machines. While machines certainly offer some incredible functions and convenience features, for the most part, they do the same thing; they stitch layers of fabric together. Sounds simple, right? Yes and no. As with so much in life, the devil is in the details.
UNDERSTANDING YOUR SEWING NEEDS AND GOALS
Sewing machines are designed for both utility and for specific needs. The types of projects that you will be making as well as the kinds of fabric you use, will dictate the features you'll need. It may be helpful to jot down your project ideas and a list of the types of fabrics you’ll likely use most.
What types of projects do you plan to make? Are you sewing for kids or with kids? Do you want to make mostly clothing or quilts and home décor items? Will you be sewing with denim or leather? Answering these questions will help you to find a machine that will support your creative work.
You see, sewing requires constant adjustment in both the mechanical settings and in the way that the fabric is manipulated. Depending on the structure of the fabric you are sewing with (woven, non woven, stretch), as well as its weight, and finish, the machine settings will need to be adjusted to facilitate a smooth stitch. Some machines will automatically make many of these adjustments for you, while others need to be changed manually.
GET MY FREE COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING FABRICS AND FIBERS.
Have you ever walked into a fabric store and felt completely overwhelmed? I hear you! To help you to find the perfect fabric for your project, I’ve written a guide to understanding fabrics and fibers. You will learn the characteristics of plant fibers, animal fibers, and synthetics, as well as fabric structure and finish. I also provide some general guidelines for needle selection, thread, stitch type and length, seam finish, pressing, handling and care. Be sure to grab it before you leave!
Choosing a well-designed sewing machine makes learning to sew a much more enjoyable process. A sewing machine is an investment and something that you will likely be using for a very long time. Even if you don’t use it every day, when you sit down to sew, you want it to work. For that, dependability is key.
TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES
Sewing machines fall into three broad categories based on motor type: Mechanical, Electronic, and Computerized.
I generally suggest that beginners purchase a mechanical machine. There are a few reasons for this. The first, they are great machines to learn on. Everything you need to control the stitching is right there in front of you. This makes it easier to begin to understand the working relationship between the needle, the stitch type, width, length, the thread, fabric, and the resulting stitch. When something goes wrong, and it will, the more you know about the machine, the easier it is to trouble shoot. As you progress in skills and want more features, a mechanical machine will be a great back up to take to classes, or when your more expensive machine needs repairs or is just too fussy to deal with.
If you have been sewing for a bit and want some extra features, an electronic machine might be a good fit. Electronic machines strike a balance between simplicity and functionality, offering room to grow into more advanced sewing without the complex interface of a computerized machine. You will find lots of decorative stitches and even an alphabet, plus convenience features such as a thread cutter, needle up/down button and automatic needle threader, speed control, and automatic thread tension adjustment. Electronic machines still require the user to control the settings, but with buttons rather than dials.
Once you have gained some skills and are ready for advanced features, Computerized machines are an option to consider. They are loaded with all types of stitches as well as specialized and convenience features. (Most of which you will never use). However, if you sew a lot, you may want to try one out. You can expect to find built in tutorials, embroidery function, a large work area, the ability to programming the machine for thread weight, needle type and size, and weave of fabric.
TRY BEFORE YOU BUY
A sewing machine dealer or local fabric shop is going to be your best bet for purchasing a machine. If you are new to sewing, you can go in and talk with a salesperson. They will ask you a few questions to assess they type of machine that will suit your needs and budget, then invite you to sit down to try a few out. The staff are knowledgeable and want to help you find the best machine for your needs. Plus, many dealers offer free classes with the purchase of a machine as well as on site repairs.
I really encourage you to shop at a few dealers to try their machines. Dealers generally specialize in a single brand or two of machines. When you find a machine that you love, you will know it immediately.
Pro tip: When I shop for a machine, I like to bring my own thread and a few different types and weights of fabric to test how the machine behaves. This way I can see how it sounds, feels, and stitches.
FEATURES
Domestic sewing machines of all types will offer a straight stitch, zig zag stitch and a buttonhole function. They also come with a set of accessories including, a basic set of presser feet, a standard foot, a zipper foot, and a buttonhole foot. You may also get a few extra bobbins, a seam ripper, a cleaning brush, a package of needles, a screwdriver, and a manual.
Some machines may offer additional accessories such as an extension table, walking foot, overlock foot, blind hem foot, or even an invisible zipper foot. These items can always be purchased separately. You will just need to make sure that they are compatible with your machine.
The types of fabric and projects that you make will dictate the other accessories and features that you will need. Since I primarily sew clothing and accessories, these are among my favorites.
A variable stitch width and length This allows you to customize the length and width each stitch.
Needle up/ down the needle up/down feature works as an extra hand. It is terrific when sewing corners and points so that your actual hands are free to guide the fabric.
Bright LED lights. Essential for being able to see what you are doing.
Adjustable presser foot pressure. Not all fabrics feed through the sewing machine with the standard pressure. Some will drag and others are thick causing the machine to leave marks. The ability to adjust the pressure can improve the quality of your stitching.
Auxiliary spool pin I’m impatient and frequently too short on time. An auxiliary spool pin allows me to wind a new bobbin without having to unthread the sewing machine. While I can do without a lot of features, this one is very important to me.
A good stretch stitch for sewing knits. When sewing, you want the stitches to sit flat and embed only slightly in the fabrics surface. Knit fabric can be tricky to sew with because they stretch. While you can sew knits with a zig zag stitch, the stretch stitch looks and lasts better. If you plan on sewing with knits, take a sample sized fabric with you and try the stitch out.
Walking Foot or Dual Feed These allow each layer of fabric to feed evenly without shifting and sliding. They are great for sewing leather, matching plaids, and stripes as well as for working with thicker fabric.
Optional feet and accessories Sewing machines come with a variety of sewing feet attachments. The ability to just purchase a specialty tool or foot for my machine means that I will use it for more projects and when some new accessory comes out- instead of upgrading my machine, I can just get that new foot or needle plate and experiment.
BUDGET
Within these categories of machines, there are a broad range of prices. While you do need to keep a budget in mind, you do not have to break the bank to get a good sewing machine. At the same time, you also don't want to shy away from quality. To get a quality machine that will last, plan to spend at least $300.
A note on buying a sewing machine for kids. As cute as they are, you want to steer away from toy machines. They are often more frustrating than they are functional. Instead, opt for a real sewing machine that will provide a solid foundation with which to learn and grow. You will want to look for a sturdy mechanical or electronic sewing machine equipped safety features such as a foot pedal, speed control, and finger guard. Kids are hard on sewing machines. A better-quality machine with all metal parts, a wide, sturdy base, and a warranty will be a wise investment. It might even get you sewing too!
RECOMMENDATIONS
Before I make any specific sewing machine recommendations, there are a few things that I’d like to note.
The machines that I recommend are ones that I personally own or have sewn on. This list is not comprehensive, and I do not receive anything from these companies if you click on the link or purchase. These are just the machines that I prefer and trust.
I am a BERNINA brand ambassador. Which means that I am a representative of the company and get to learn all about the exciting new machines and accessories. If you are in the market for a BERNINA Sewing Machine, please contact me and I will be happy to discuss with you.
BERNINA is a 5th generation family-owned company based in Switzerland. They manufacturer the highest quality of sewing machines, which are produced in modern factories that pay their employees a living wage. The factories were updated about a decade ago with an eye toward sustainability and reducing their carbon footprint. BERNINA also has a diffusion line of machines called bernette. I use bernette machines in my classroom.
This might sound like an advertisement- it’s not. I do not receive anything for sharing my opinion or get any monetary benefit from your purchase. It’s just my honest opinion.
At my home studio, I have two main machines; BERNINA 350PE and 590E. (The 350PE is no longer available, but this one is similar). The 350PE is hands down my favorite sewing machine ever. It has all the features you would expect from an electronic machine, with the ability to add new feet and accessories, but still simple to use. I basically turn it on, thread it and go. It sews through anything. (All of the bags in my first book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More, were made on this machine).
The 590E is my fancy machine, meaning I mostly use it for creative sewing or for precision sewing (the tricky stuff!) as it allows me to fine tune every detail. From typing in the exact brand, color, and weight of thread to programming my foot pedal, no detail is too small to customize. Fussy, right? Yes, but sometimes a project calls for perfection.
I have written a few other posts over the years on sewing machines. My recommendations haven’t changed. However, some of the specific machines may be discontinued or have updated models.
At Little Stitch Studio, I have suite of bernette B38s as well as a B79 for quilting and embroidery. These machines are quite impressive and suitable for all types of sewing projects and levels of experience. bernette machines are available in mechanical, electronic, and computerized models. They are solid machines that have intuitive features, sturdy construction, and lots of accessories.
Little Stitch Studio, Norfolk, VA
The b38 is the top model of the 30 series bernette machines. This means that it has the most features and functions. There are some others that I highly recommend for consideration.
Kid Favorite: The Eversewn Sparrow line features mechanical, electronic, and computerized sewing machines. They are some of the most kid friendly machines that I have used. They have a solid weight, intuitive features and sew reliably well. The machines were designed to appeal to a younger customer, one who is enthusiastic about sewing and wants a machine that is both durable and packed with thoughtful features that are typically available in more expensive machines.
Janome, Juki, Pfaff, Baby lock and Viking are among the best sewing machines available. You can’t go wrong with any of them. I will highlight a few individual models but know that these are reliable brands that will last and likely to be passed down through generations. I recommend that you look through the websites and compare the features and prices.
This Janome model has been around for a bit and for good reason. It is an “entry-level” mechanical machine from a dependable brand. This machine is an anniversary edition and comes with a little bag of extra accessories.
I have this Juki machine and have recommended it to many friends and students. It has the ability to sew through several layers of fabric and keep an even tension. Plus the little turtle and rabbit icons help the youngest sewers monitor their speed. (Juki is the standard in industrial sewing machines and their domestic machines meet a similar standard).
Pfaff is another cult favorite brand, with good reason. (I had a young student bring a 1980’s Pfaff into class last week. It belonged to her grandmother and is still going strong! That goes to show you the value of quality and longevity).
Before I purchased my first BERNINA sewing machine, I was a longtime Husqvarna Viking user. In fact, the first machines that I purchased for my studio when I began teaching were the Emerald 118. The Emerald 118 is a mechanical machine that is straight forward, no bells and whistles, but durable and produces a quality stitch. If you plan to do a lot of heavy duty sewing, this is a machine that you will want to seriously consider.
My first location in a room at Ghent Methodist Church, in Norfolk, VA. Those sweet little girls are all teenagers now.
Brother machines are very popular for their price and convenience of buying them just about anywhere. I have some students (both kids and adults) that have them and have no complaints. They are machines that work and have loads of features. You can buy a fully computerized one for less than $300. It is important to note that I make this recommendation with reservation, as Brother machines have an attractive price and they do sew just fine. However, they are made in China and use a lot of plastic parts; this means that they are not going to last forever and is likely that when something breaks, it may not be worth fixing. I certainly don’t mean this to sound snobbish, instead, please understand that I value well made products that are built to last and to be maintained.
In conclusion, choose a machine that aligns with your sewing goals, the types of projects you'll undertake, and the materials you'll use. Whether it's for you or for a child, the right machine can make the journey into sewing a delightful one. And remember, I'm always here to help with personalized machine recommendations and advice to ensure your sewing success.
Happy Sewing!
XO, Hilarie
The Detachable Statement Collar Free Sewing Pattern and Tutorial
Statement collars are everywhere right now- and with good reason. They can be easily tied on over tees, coats, sweaters and even dresses for an instant outfit upgrade. The collars are really easy to make and to give as gifts too!
Detachable Statement Collar Free PDF Sewing Pattern and Tutorial
Statement collars are everywhere right now- and with good reason. They can be easily tied on over tees, coats, sweaters and even dresses for an instant outfit upgrade. The collars are really easy to make and to give as gifts too!
From pristine white collars with lace trim to knitted capelets and quilted denim, there are collars for every occasion and outfit. Beaded collars, fur collars, collars with plumes, collars with lace, collars with piping, and tiers of ruffles. For someone who loves fashion and sewing, these collars offer a sewist a chance to pull out all of the stops and finally try an embellishing technique that perhaps has seemed too daunting for a larger project.
Detachable statement collars are really easy to make- the hard part is choosing a style as there are so many new and fun options. Mini, maxi, round and pointed. Lace, ruffles, trimmed and beaded- the variations are endless. I thought you might enjoy learning all about collars in general and how to make and customize them. To that end, I have designed a group of patterns that I will share with you over the coming lessons. To that end, you can think of this as a sort of mini-course in collars.
The pattern is available for download here and also at weallsew where you will find the step by step tutorial. I can’t wait to see what you make!
New to using PDF sewing patterns? Check out this link for tips on assembly.
Head over to weallsew to download and get the tutorial.
Happy Sewing!
XOXO, Hilarie
Top 10 Favorite Sewing Tools
The right sewing tools make sewing easier and so much more enjoyable. Often time I am asked about what tools someone needs to begin sewing. That can be a tricky question as it really depends on what types of things you are sewing. Garment sewing? Bags? Home decor? While all of these categories have some overlap, many require specialty notions. So as not to get overwhelmed, I suggest that you get what you need for the project you are working on and build from there.
To that end, there are some tools you may find helpful no matter what type of sewing you plan to do.
Hello friends! It’s a full week for many of us, with Christmas next Friday. I am certain that you are busy making plans and crossing off that gift list. For those like me, who maybe haven’t finished shopping yet, here is a list of some of my favorite sewing tools. Perhaps you know someone who would love to wake up Christmas morning with a stocking full of sewing fun!
The right sewing tools make sewing easier and so much more enjoyable. Often time I am asked about what tools someone needs to begin sewing. That can be a tricky question as it really depends on what types of things you are sewing. Garment sewing? Bags? Home decor? While all of these categories have some overlap, many require specialty notions. So as not to get overwhelmed, I suggest that you get what you need for the project you are working on and build from there.
To that end, there are some tools you may find helpful no matter what type of sewing you plan to do.
These needles come in an assortment of sizes that suit the lightest to more heavier weight thread- and the gold eye makes them that much easier to thread.
Lots of cutting can lead to tired hands. The spring in these scissors make cutting a breeze.
For a truly straight cut, there is noting like a rotary cutter.
This ruler has a bit of depth to it and works well as a guide for the rotary cutter. It also makes an ideal marker for making bag straps and bias cuts.
These chalk pencils are great for transferring small pattern details.
Idea for tracing seam lines and darts. The blunt edge is great for transferring markings onto paper or fabric; and it won’t damage the materials themselves.
Indispensable. Clover makes the sharpest and the best around. If you find a 3 pack- buy it. You will thank yourself later.
Among my collection of rulers, this small one seems to be used most often. It helps with pattern grading, tracing lines and darts and measuring hems.
Perfect for a quick sharp cut to thread a needle. Keep a pair right next to your sewing machine and one in your sewing box.
Essential for making yards of nice crisp bias tape.
What are your favorite sewing essentials? You can look forward to an upcoming post on some more specialized tools for pattern making, marking, pressing as well as tools for making bags. Perhaps it is time for a new bag pattern too?
XO, Hilarie
What Should I Look For When Buying a Sewing Machine? A Guide to Selecting the "Right" Machine for You
Shopping for a sewing machine can seem a bit of an overwhelming task- especially if you don’t have a lot of sewing experience. I’m guessing that if you are reading this article, you might fall into that category. Welcome! I’m so pleased that you stopped by.
There is no doubt about it, 2020 has brought sewing back! A telling sign for me is that instead of the rush of November requests for advice or recommendations for sewing machine, I ‘ve been getting a steady stream for months.
No matter who calls, my advice is always begins with the same question. What are you planning to make? You see, sewing machines are designed for utility and also for specific sewing needs. It helps to know what types of projects you will be making as well as the kind of fabric you plan to use.
You see, sewing machines are designed for both utility but also for specific sewing needs. It helps to know what types of projects you will be making and what kind of fabric you plan to use.
When considering the purchase of a new sewing machine, whether for yourself or as a gift, there are several things that you need to think about.
Shopping for a sewing machine can seem a bit of an overwhelming task- especially if you don’t have a lot of sewing experience. I’m guessing that if you are reading this article, you might fall into that category. Welcome! I’m so pleased that you stopped by.
There is no doubt about it, 2020 has brought sewing back! A telling sign for me is that instead of the rush of November requests for advice or recommendations for sewing machine, I ‘ve been getting a steady stream for months.
No matter who calls, my advice is always begins with the same question. What are you planning to make? You see, sewing machines are designed for utility and also for specific sewing needs. It helps to know what types of projects you will be making as well as the kind of fabric you plan to use.
When considering the purchase of a new sewing machine, whether for yourself or as a gift, there are several things that you need to think about. For starters, what type of sewing machine you actually need. To determine this, spend a few minutes writing down what kind of projects you plan to make. Are you sewing for kids? Making quilts? Clothing? Will you be sewing some home decor items like pillows, draperies and slipcovers? Perhaps you will be making handbags and other fashion accessories. What type of fabric will you be sewing with? Mostly cottons and linens or do you plan to use denim and leather?
Choosing a well-designed sewing machine makes learning to sew a much more enjoyable process. A sewing machine is an investment and something that you will likely be using for a very long time. Even if you don’t use it every day, when you sit down to sew, you want to have one that is dependable. Sewing machines can also be very expensive. While you do need to keep a budget in mind, you do not have to break the bank to get a really good sewing machine.
Once you have these questions answered, you will be able to narrow the options down a bit. If you can, go to a sewing machine dealer or local fabric shop and spend some time looking at sewing machines. There are salespeople there that will be happy to help you select a machine that fits your sewing goals as well as your budget.
When I shop for a machine, I like to bring my own thread and a few different types of fabric to sew with and try the machines out. This way I can see how it sounds, feels and stitches. Since I primarily sew clothing and accessories, the following features are really important to me.
Variable Stitch Width and Length This allows me to customize the length and width each stitch.
Needle down feature The Needle down feature works as an extra hand. It is terrific when sewing corners and points so that your actual hands are free to guide the fabric.
A bright light. Essential- especially for aging eyes.
The ability to adjust the presser foot pressure. Not all fabrics feed through the sewing machine with the standard pressure. Some will drag and others are thick causing the machine to leave marks. The ability to adjust the pressure can improve the quality of your stitching.
Auxiliary spool pin I’m impatient and frequently too short on time. An auxiliary spool pin allows me to wind a new bobbin without having to unthread the sewing machine. While I can do without a lot of features, this one is very important to me.
A good stretch stitch for sewing knits. When sewing, you want the stitches to sit flat and embed only slightly in the fabrics surface. Knit fabric can be tricky to sew with because it stretches. While you can sew knits with a zig zag stitch, the stretch stitch looks and lasts better. If you plan on sewing with knits, take a sample sized fabric with you and try the stitch out.
Walking Foot For me, a walking foot is essential. A walking foot allows each layer of fabric to feed evenly without shifting and sliding. It is also fantastic for sewing leather, matching plaids and stripes as well as for really thick fabric. Some machines may come with the walking foot already attached, others sell it as an optional accessory.
Optional feet and accessories Sewing machines come with a variety of sewing feet attachments. The ability to just purchase a specialty tool or foot for my machine means that I will use it for more projects and when something new comes out- instead of upgrading my machine, I can just get a new foot or plate and experiment.
This is just my list of must-haves. You will likely have a list of your own that will meet your specific sewing needs.
Different Types of Sewing Machines
Sewing machines are broadly categorized by motor type: Mechanical, Electronic and Computerized.
Mechanical sewing machines are the most basic and reliable sewing machines available. They come equipped with a pedal that controls the sewing speed and knobs that you turn to control the stitch selection, width, length and tension. Everything is controlled by the user.
Electronic sewing machines are a bit of a hybrid between mechanical and computerized. They generally offer several convenience features and settings. These machines often have a display and lots of programmed stitches, patterns and designs. While electronic machines do have a foot control, many also sew with the press of a button. Some additional features that many offer are a speed control function, automatic needle threader, needle down button and a thread cutter.
Computerized sewing machines the fanciest of all and they are also the most expensive. Computerized machines are pretty much as the name suggests. A computer runs each motor function of the machine. They are precise, loaded with features and truly amazing to use. If you continue on your sewing journey, I do recommend that you look at these- one day, but not in the beginning.
For a beginner, I almost always recommend a mechanical sewing machine. There are already so many things to learn when sewing, having a machine that you don’t quite understand will just add to the frustration. A mechanical machine is really very straightforward and easy to troubleshoot and fix when something goes wrong. And it will. Don’t worry, there are some mechanical machines that come with a variety of convenience features too.
An electronic machine is my second recommendation, as they do offer more features. Often, electronic machines have many decorative stitches, several styles of buttonholes, some embroidery capability, the ability to control the speed of the machine and lots of accessories. As long as the manual is available or you have someone knowledgeable around, they are fairly easy to learn to sew with. While they will need more maintenance and care than the mechanical machines, they offer plenty of room for growth. The decision really comes back to what you plan to sew, what features you need and how much your budget allows. If you purchase a mechanical machine now and discover down the road you are continuing to sew, maybe consider upgrading. Then you will always have your mechanical machine as a backup to travel with or to use when your electronic of computerized machine is in the shop, as they need routine maintenance.
So which sewing machines do I recommend? The following are machines that I have or have sewn on. This list is not comprehensive, and I do not receive anything from these companies if you click on the link or purchase. These are just the machines that I prefer and trust. (Full disclosure, I am a BERNINA brand ambassador. Which means that I am a representative of the company and get to learn all about the exciting new machines and accessories. If you are in the market for a BERNINA Sewing Machine, please contact me and I will be happy to discuss with you.)
One more bit of advice, you will get much better service by going to a sewing machine dealer or fabric store than if you were to purchase from a big box store. The staff at a dealer are quite knowledgable and want to help you find the best machine for your needs. Plus, many offer free classes with the purchase of a machine as well as on site repairs. That being said, many of you may be under shelter in place orders or wanting to purchase as a gift for an out of town friend or family member and need to purchase online. In the presence of that, I have included some links to Amazon.
If you happen to be searching for a sewing machine for a child, you may want to read this post too. It has a few additional thoughts specific to sewing with children.
Best Sewing Machines for Beginners As Well as those With Some Experience
Bernette
The Bernette B38 is the newest addition to my shop. I have several of these machines and I have to say they are quite impressive.
Other models to consider:
https://www.bernette.com/en-US/3-Series/Bernette-35.htm l
The B38 is the style that I use at my shop, Little Stitch Studio.
https://www.bernette.com/en-US/3-Series/Bernette-38.html
This Sew & Go is particularly good for a child.
You can learn more about the sew & go here and find a local dealer.
BERNINA
This is one of the 300 Series BERNINA machines that are fantastic- and built to last a lifetime. At home, I sew on a BERNINA 350PE and a 570QE.
Eversewn
I have used this machine in my shop for years!
Also see this Mechanical option:
https://www.eversewn.com/maker-100
Viking
The Viking 116 and 117 were the first machines that I used when I began teaching sewing. The 116 is my back-up machine. It packs a lot of power and will sew through anything! Also, the low shank fits most universal feet and accessories.
Juki
I own a single model of this machine but have recommended it for years. Each person who has purchased it seems to really enjoy it.
Janome
I do not own this machine, but have sewn on it many times and have lots of students that are happy with it. Like all of the other brands that I am recommending, Janome is reliable.
Also consider:
https://www.amazon.com/Janome-Magnolia-7318-Sewing-Machine/dp/B001I1D1VA
Babylock
This particular machine will make up for the lack of features for its stitch quality and reliable performance.
Also consider:
I hope that this post will help you to select a sewing machine that will bring you years of joy. Please let me know in the comments, which one you choose- as well as the features that are most important to you.
Happy Sewing!
XO, Hilarie
A Garment Construction Plan; 25 Steps to Successful Sewing
I’ve always loved the excitement and sheer certainty that comes with starting an ambitious new project. Once the fabric is in hand, it feels like it is only hours until I get to wear this dream de jour. Each moment spent preparing, is filled with thoughts such as, “what shoes should I wear with it?” “What kind of bag goes with awesome?” Oh and – “where will I wear it?” Of course, as a mom, I quickly realize that time slips away and those mere hours from concept to ‘all decked out’ turn into weeks or months. When I was much younger, it was nothing to stay up all night and sew a new outfit for school the next day, or for some dance or occasion. I can still picture myself sitting on the floor in my room, sketching, cutting, sewing and dreaming the days away. I’ve managed to hold onto a few of those pieces that I made early on. When I look at them now, part of me is appalled by the lack of skill and obvious haste in which these clothes were made- but the other is touched with the charming memories and joy of the sheer zeal and passion of my younger self.
I’ve always loved the excitement and sheer certainty that comes with starting an ambitious new project. Once the fabric is in hand, it feels like it is only hours until I get to wear this dream de jour. Each moment spent preparing, is filled with thoughts such as, “what shoes should I wear with it?” “What kind of bag goes with awesome?” Oh and – “where will I wear it?” Of course, as a mom, I quickly realize that time slips away and those mere hours from concept to ‘all decked out’ turn into weeks or months. When I was much younger, it was nothing to stay up all night and sew a new outfit for school the next day, or for some dance or occasion. I can still picture myself sitting on the floor in my room, sketching, cutting, sewing and dreaming the days away. I’ve managed to hold onto a few of those pieces that I made early on. When I look at them now, part of me is appalled by the lack of skill and obvious haste in which these clothes were made- but the other is touched with the charming memories and joy of the sheer zeal and passion of my younger self.
In the decades that have passed, I’ve refined my skills. While some of my training has been formal, much has been learned through trial and error. It takes time to learn to sew well. Part of it is being able to execute a set of individual skills, but so many aspects of sewing are interdependent. Fabric, fit, structure, design; if any one of these is less than ideally balanced then the project is a flop.
There are as many methods and ways to sew as there are people who sew. Some of my favorite projects for beginners- and anyone who is enthusiastic about sewing, are purses and other wearable fashion accessories. They are fairly quick, a great opportunity to try out new techniques and don’t always require lots of fabric and experience. In fact, if you are ready to jump in right now, I have written a lots of blog posts with tutorials and a couple of books on sewing fashion accessories. (Shameless plug!)
Cutting, marking, pinning, basting, stitching, seam finishing, trimming, pressing, stabilizing- all of these techniques are used in sewing over and over no matter what it is you are making. While there is a general order of construction to follow, and some guidelines, there happen to be a lot of exceptions too. This can lead to unnecessary frustration for beginners!
When you buy a pattern, whether indie or from one of the big commercial companies, you will find several pages of directions for constructing the project. The instructions begin with a few line drawings and a list of pattern pieces that will need to be cut out, marked and sewn together. Most beginner – Intermediate patterns will rely on the method of unit construction. Unit construction means that you will work on a single piece, completing as much as possible before moving on to the next. This method offers many advantages to the beginner. By keeping the work flat, it reduces handling of the fabric which could lead to stretching and distortion in inexperienced hands. The straightforward finishing and construction is mostly completed on the machine, which speeds up the sewing process. When you are learning how to sew, there are so many details that you need to consider, that projects calling for very basic techniques and few pattern pieces are a great place to begin.
As you gain more sewing experience, you will begin to anticipate the sewing instruction order. The easier patterns will use basic construction methods, but as you move on to more advanced styles, you will be working on multiple steps at once. Pattern instructions are often minimal and presuppose some type of working knowledge. This is where books, sewing classes, and articles about specific techniques come in handy- they help to fill in the knowledge gap.
No matter how simple or advanced a project you are making, the steps will be outlined with a plan. With this plan, even complicated construction can be simplified. A sewing project begins with preparing the fabric and pattern before moving on to fitting, shaping and finishing. Some patterns have more information and are more detailed than others. I have found that those new to sewing are often apprehensive to work bit out of order from the pattern for fear of ruining their project. Additionally, many patterns that my students bring in are written without much emphasis on fitting and finer finishes.
With this in mind, I have written a plan for garment construction with an eye toward fitting and design. Of course, this list is not exhaustive and will not apply to every project. Some of your garments you make may not have every detail that I’ve mentioned- and some will have more. I encourage you to use this as more of a companion to your pattern instructions so that you can begin to make connections to the steps and to discover how to integrate new techniques.
Over the course of the next few weeks, we can take a deeper look into the organization of this plan. My goal is to help you to not only understand what you are doing, but why. Once you understand that, sewing will become so much easier.
Garment Construction Plan
25 Steps to Success
Preparation
Study the pattern.
Compare your body measurements to the pattern and make any necessary pattern adjustments.
Prepare the fabric by straightening the grainline.
Layout the fabric and pattern pieces. Pin (or use weights) fabric to pattern when you are pleased with the layout.
Once you have determined that you have all of the necessary pieces laid out correctly on the grain, double check again to confirm before cutting.
Mark all of the construction details.
Staystitch each garment section.
Interface each area as suggested in your pattern.
Stitch and press all darts, tucks, pleats or gathers.
Shaping
Prepare all lining or underlining.
If there are any style lines such as a yoke or princess seams, pin and stitch.
Stitch the center front and center back seams.
Prepare and apply style details such as tabs and pockets.
Baste the shoulder seams.
Baste the side seams and inseam.
Try on for fit. If you are pleased with the fit, go ahead and stitch the shoulder, side seams and inseam. Remove basting.
When the design calls for a waistband, prepare and attach it to the seam.
When the style features a collar, make it.
When the design calls for sleeves, set and stitch the sleeves
If a neckline or armhole needs a facing, prepare and attach the facing.
Finishing
If a zipper is needed, insert it.
Finish the inside seams.
Set and sew the hems
Add the closures-buttons, buttonhole and snaps..
Complete any other hand finishing.
*Throughout each step, have your iron and pressing cloth ready.
Here is a handy PDF of versions this plan for you to print and keep with your sewing books and patterns.
The Basic Principles of Garment Construction: Functional, Structural and Decorative Design
The Design Process
Fashion is all about illusions, line, color, space and texture. These concepts are based on the Principles and Elements of Design. It doesn’t matter if we are talking about designing couture gowns, tailoring, fashion accessories, kids wear or pet clothes. These foundational art principles become primary considerations in construction. Sewing is an art, that of making beautiful clothes. It takes time, thought and practice.
Why Construction Should Matter
Clothing construction refers to the stitching of garments and all the sewing techniques involved in the process. Every choice and detail: pockets, seams, seam finishes, zippers, facings, linings, interfacings, closures and hems, as well as a good understanding of fabric are all intertwined.
Having a strong understanding of construction will help you to become more confident in handling your sewing projects. You will no longer be beholden to the pattern as written. Understanding construction will allow you to confidently move a dart or eliminate an unwanted detail. You will begin to understand how and why pattern pieces are joined in a particular way and order.
Fashion is all about illusions, line, color, space and texture. These concepts are based on the Principles and Elements of Design. It doesn’t matter if we are talking about designing couture gowns, tailoring, fashion accessories, kids wear or pet clothes. These foundational art principles become primary considerations throughout the construction process. Sewing is an art, that of making beautiful clothes. It takes time, thought and practice, plus lots of experimentation.
Why Construction Should Matter
Clothing construction refers to the stitching of garments and all the sewing techniques involved in the process. Every choice and detail: pockets, seams, seam finishes, zippers, facings, linings, interfacings, closures and hems, as well as a good understanding of fabric are all intertwined.
Having a strong understanding of construction will help you to become more confident in handling your sewing projects. You will no longer be beholden to the pattern as written. Having savvy construction skills will allow you to confidently move a dart or eliminate an unwanted detail. You will begin to recognize how and why pattern pieces are joined in a particular way and order.
Function, Structural and Decorative Design
As with other types of applied design, fashion design is a process of seeking a match between a set of requirements and clever ways of meeting them. The success of any design depends on the designer’s ability to combine aesthetic sensibility with a strong technical knowledge. Clothing as a wearable art needs to be, well, wearable. Which means that it needs to fit and flatter, to be taken off, cleaned and worn again. The age old dilemma of form vs. function.
Functional Design
With clothing, it is impossible to separate design and fit. The garment needs to feel comfortable. It needs to provide adequate room to move, while still maintaining its shape, or form. The selected fabric needs to be a suitable weight and appropriate for the garment.
What type of garment are you making? Is it intended for a specific season? How will you care for it? Does it need to provide protection? What kind of activity will you be engaged in while wearing? Swimming? Running? Sleeping?
You see, there is a symbiotic relationship between the materials chosen and the approach to construction. Functional design is really about appropriateness. How the garment physically works and preforms.
Some may be quite obvious, for example, uniforms for police, firefighters and physicians. They all need specific protection for their unique job. Of course, all clothing, with the exception of a concept piece, needs to be functional to actually be worn. A t-shirt or sweater needs to pull over the head to get it on and again to remove. Pants and skirts need to be held up at the waist or hip and have some sort of way to anchor to the body. It is in this way that you can see how fashion and function go hand in hand.
Structural Design
The structure of a garment is everything that holds the garment together. The fabric, the seams, shaping and everything that goes on between the outer fabric and the inside. It incorporates a number of different elements depending on the desired look that you want to achieve.
A garment which has been nicely made and neatly finished will wear better over time, it will also sit better on the body. Sometimes when a garment is not finished correctly small details will not seem to hang nicely on the body – a collar won’t roll quite the right way, a neckline won’t sit quite flat or a lining will bunch up in the wrong areas. A large part of the ability to control the shape of the garment is in giving the correct structure to support the silhouette.
Decorative Design
After the functional and structural details have been carefully considered, decorative design is next! What is Decorative Design? Decorative Design refers to the decorative surface finish, but it is often what catches your eye and draws you to a garment. Details such as buttons, bows, trim, embroidery, prints, pattern and color. These embellishments can be paired to enhance a design or to subvert it. Their purpose may be completely decorative, but is always carefully considered.
As is often the case, the beauty of a garment isn’t in the “decorative element” but in the lack of embellishment. Working within a minimalist framework, a mix of clever pattern cutting, strong construction skills and correct structure can sometimes be just as innovative and modern as any surface design.
In fashion sewing, you can see how a broad appreciation of function, structure and decorative design is necessary. Not one of these is exclusive, as each needs to be considered on individual merits as well as how they relate to the whole garment. Some designers start with their end product in mind and experiment endlessly until they can turn their mental images into a physical form. Others start from a point of experimentation and allow for happy accidents. The beauty of great design is less about strict rules and more about the consideration of balance and innovation.
Next week’s lesson:
Order of Operations in Garment Sewing
Introducing: The Basic Principles of Garment Construction, A New Blog Series
So many of you are discovering the possibilities that open up when you learn to sew. With even a basic set of skills, you can begin to make simple clothing, fashionable accessories and home decor projects. Soon you may find yourself searching for patterns, fabric and fancy new sewing machines. Suddenly a whole new world opens up- it really is an exciting time.
Well, that is until it isn’t.
There are so many frustrating moments that you will encounter when learning to sew. Tangled threads, broken needles, machine malfunctions. All normal stuff- I promise. You see, there is a difference between knowing how to sew and how to sew well. Learning to sew well takes time and patience. Yes, you will continue to make mistakes, I still do! But it is through these mistakes that you can begin to really learn why things need to be done in a certain order or way – and what happens when you don’t.
So many of you are discovering the possibilities that open up when you learn to sew. With even a basic set of skills, you can begin to make simple clothing, fashionable accessories and home decor projects. Soon you may find yourself searching for patterns, fabric and fancy new sewing machines. Suddenly a whole new world opens up- it really is an exciting time.
Well, that is until it isn’t.
There are so many frustrating moments that you will encounter when learning to sew. Tangled threads, broken needles, machine malfunctions. All normal stuff- I promise. You see, there is a difference between knowing how to sew and how to sew well. Learning to sew well takes time and patience. Yes, you will continue to make mistakes, I still do! But it is through these mistakes that you can begin to really learn why things need to be done in a certain order or way – and what happens when you don’t.
To truly master anything, it is not enough to know how to do something- you also need to know why.
Introduction to Garment Construction
In this series, my intention is to guide you step by step through a variety of methods and techniques to help you to gain a true understanding of the fundamentals of sewing. Through hands on practice, I hope that you will begin to notice the underlying construction principles and techniques that come up in sewing again and again.
Cutting, marking, pinning, basting, stitching, seam finishing, trimming, stabilizing- all of these techniques are used in sewing over and over no matter what it is you are making. It really helps to understand why each step is necessary and how it will relate to your final project. Though there are many ways approach a single technique, I will share with you what works best for me. Please don’t expect any shortcuts, as that is not what I do. Instead, I believe in spending time to develop a very special set of skills that will set your work apart and help you to create the pieces that you dream of.
Get your scissors ready!